Saturday, January 17, 2009

Confessions of a Reluctant Omnivore

I suffered an almost typical conversion to vegetarianism as a teenager. One day I was staring at an unappetizing heap of processed lunch meat when it dawned on me. "We're eating chopped up dead animal parts." It just seemed wrong. The evidence was everywhere: factory farm conditions, diet-related illnesses, environmental detriment, and so on.

I happily abandoned meat without really thinking about the bigger picture and soon confronted the fact that a healthy vegetarian needs to do more than just pick the meat off of things. One must pay close attention to food and its composition: amino acids, B-vitamins, iron, etc. This kind of scrutiny usually opens the gateway into a long journey of nutritional self-education. One thing was certain: I needed to learn to cook my own food.

My personal gastronomic journey had begun. I went crazy for all those things I ignored as a child: kale, quinoa, hummus, fresh sprouts, nutritional yeast, sesame, tempeh... I began eating fish and shellfish while traveling in Chile. It didn't seem right to refuse. I learned and asked more questions of my self I decided that eating animals isn't fundamentally wrong in any situation. In fact, in terms of health and environmentalism, the questions go way beyond the simple Plant vs. Animal debate.

It is more challenging but ultimately more rewarding and meaningful to look at the complex picture. Local family raised meat seems many times more sustainable than imported processed soy products. So why do so many environment & health conscious people choose the processed soy?

If we're speaking purely in numbers of souls involved, the industrial production of grains involves a tremendous scale of cute-little-animal destruction. Think of all the food and material provided by just one large mammal, especially if its grass-fed and didn't require the destruction of wild habitat. I know: most of our meat is produced in ways that are incredibly, rediculously, immorally destructive to the environment and yield unhealthy products to boot.

This is my advice:

Support local family farms and butchers. Seek them out. Make friends with these people. The best way to increase the welfare of livestock is to support the folks doing it right.

Learn how to handle, prepare, and store animal products. I will always remember the day a chef-friend gave me a bloody sack of raw venison and I stayed up all night reading the Joy of Cooking and Alton Brown. The effort paid off. The result was delicious and heart-warming. Anything you learn to do on your own will save you money. Think you can't afford to buy local grass-fed products? Learn how. It's a very empowering process.

Once I turned my ecologically-inspired vegetarianism into total all-out foodism I abandoned my former squeamishness. I cannot stress enough the beauty and value of the nasty bits: marrow, organs, tongue, casings, lard, blood, gelatin, sweetbreads, trotters, cheeks... exploring these aspects of an the animal is not only fundamental to the food traditions of every culture on earth, it the responsibility of any conscious omnivore.

The "don't ask don't tell" mantra of many meat-eaters and their insistence on cheap ready-made products is what's wrecking havoc on a global scale. It is usually this behavior that drives many of us to forgo meat altogether. I believe in a third way. It is a growing movement and some prominent chef-authors have been saying so as well. Mark Bittman and Jamie Oliver come to mind. So come on and try it, I dare you.

5 comments:

  1. A few years back I stood in the produce section with my friend Manuel, visiting from Europe. There seemed to be an acre of fruits and vegatable in front of us. After looking closely he said: "I've never seen so much garbage in my life". I realized then, meat or not, how much I hated manufactured food - both for the way it's done and for the lousy quality. American taste buds have been numbed.

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  2. Firstly, I agree that if meat is going to be eaten it, it is best that it be free-ranged, organic, grass-fed and all of that jazz (and that every ounce of the animal that can be eaten should be). However, I disagree with a few points here. Think of the sheer biomass consumption factor. Every calorie of energy you get from beef comes from something like 9 calories of plant matter. Thus, eating meat is essentially inefficient. So, although you can look at it as 1 soul versus many, I think that that is an essentially misleading view of the situation, becuase beneath that one soul were many. Also, animals being grass fed does not always imply non-desctruction of habitat. If for example, you are in a region which is primarily forested and use land for pasturing grass fed animals, you are taking land away from the environment and turning it into pasture land. Furthermore, because of the ultimate inefficiencies of meat consumption, you would have needed only a fraction of the land to support the same number of people had you been focusing on growing vegetables and such. One could argue that the situation is somewhat different if you live in the plains, in that habitat is not being converted in the same sense, but the inefficiencies still remain.

    I personally am a vegetarian for the very reasons that I mention above. I do however recognize that vegetarianism is not for everyone. What I ask of people is mostly that they be aware of the full impact of their choices, moderate meat consumption and consume meat ethically.

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  3. You make a very good point, Chris. This is exactly the kind of feedback I want. I should take a cold hard look at the "green"-labeled meat I like to buy and do some number crunching in terms of efficiency and land use. Presently I'm too busy reading journals for my upcoming biofuels expose. {'Biofuels' not a word, Google? really?... really?}
    The souls comment was just me being cynical. I guess many vege-centric eaters these days are paying more attention to the environmental consequences than to the happy-fluffy-animal visualizations of yore. In a deep eco-theoretical sense we should be focusing on mixed agricultural systems where multitudes of species from all kingdoms interact in a tasty web. Livestock grazing at the expense of diverse plant-life and monoculture plant growth without animal 'contributions' are two sides of the bleak realities of our food system. That said, just because I can visualize a dynamic polyvorous web doesn't really justify everything I buy at Whole Foods. Investigations forthcoming...

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  4. Thanks for your considerations, Ben. I look what forward to hearing what you dig up regarding numerical investigations into the effects of different eating habits. It's something that I have been very interested in knowing a great deal more about. Meanwhile, carry on with the biofuels research.

    Cheers

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  5. Oh, by the way, The Great Metasoarous is Chris Small. I switched to a different profile.

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